As we get Older it is harder especially for us older folk to Get off and on The Throne. I’ve found over the years that most RV’s have small toilets and many are way to low for a tall person. I always hated the small round ones and replaced all of the toilets in my Sticks and Bricks Home with tall 19 inch Elongated ones. The one in my Motor home was elongated,but not High enough in such a small space, and was hard to get off of without my old joints complaining. I finally decided to do something about it. Originally I was going to build a box to raise it up and set the toilet on the box, That is until I discovered a universal one, made by Thetford Brand New for around $30 with Gaskets and Hardware. I found a used one on Amazon for $22 including shipping. When I got it I took it out of the box and it was brand new. Not a mark or blemish on it and the gaskets and Hardware were still in the original plastic envelope. I think what happens is some one bought it and it did not fit or was the wrong item and returned it. Once the package has been opened it cannot be sold as new again. I have bought many so called used items off of Amazon that when I got them they looked brand new.
First off I had drained and flushed the tanks before Winterizing the Motor home, so there was a couple of gallons of water mixed with RV antifreeze in the bottom of the tank along with my own deodorizer and cleaner formula. I unhooked the supply line from the toilet and undid the two nuts holding the toilet to the floor flange and lifted the toilet straight up and set it on a garbage bag that I spread out before hand. Yhe old gasket was still stuck to the Flange, so I grabbed it with rubber gloves and it came right off. I got a big gob of paper towels and after wiping the floor were anti freeze had spilled out of the toilet, I cleaned the flange. I took the wad of paper towels and stuffed them in the pipe although there was no smell. I then turned the new Thetford riser over and installed a new gasket. There are 2 sets of long bolts that came with the hardware. I choose the shorter set that stick up through the Riser from the flange and the toilet slips over them and the nuts are tightened to hold the toilet and the riser to the floor. I thought I would need the longer bolts, but had been forwarned that the longer bolts may be to long. So I opted for the shorter ones. I then placed the riser over the bolts coming up from the flange to check the fit and clearance. The Bolts wobbled all over the place and kept coming out of the flange. I should have gotten some plumbers putty or modeling clad to put around the flange and base of the bolts to hold them in place. It would have made the job easier to put the riser over the bolts. I finally got the bolts lined up and the riser set over the flange. (See) Picture below.
Riser setting on Flange in floor. New Pex Pipe and Shut off valve. The Original water pipe for the toilet did not have a shut off valve and you would have to turn off all of the water supply if you needed to work on the toilet or replace the valve inside. So I added a valve and redid the water line using Pex pipe and fittings. the valve is pex also and a lot easier to install. Pex is a lot stronger but hard to work with. Since I already had the Cinch or pinch rings, and the tools I decided to go with Pex. After checking clearances and make changes to the water line It was now time to install the toilet and hook everything up.
I turned the toilet Upside down and cleaned the area where the new gasket would go using rubber gloves I proceeded. to clean and installed the new gasket. The Riser was ready for the toilet and held the bolts steady so it was easier to set the toilet on the bolts sticking up through the riser. Warning! don’t forget to remove the rags or paper towels in the pipe before installing the toilet on the riser. I forgot to do so and had the toilet almost bolted all of the way when I pushed the pedal to check clearance and saw the wad of paper towels in the pipe. I had to remove the toilet to get them out. Once the toilet was bolted down and I set on it and moved around to seat the gaskets. I then re-tightened the nuts on the bolts. I then cut the pex line and installed the angle fitting that hooks to the toilet. had to all but stand on my head to get the Pinch ring cinched on the angle fitting. at last it is almost done. see picture below.
The toilet now sits 19 1/2 inches from the floor. It is a whole lot easier to get on and off. The water line and valve are much better than the old setup, and the new shut off valve for the toilet is easy to get to, in case the water to the toilet needs to be shut off. see picture of pipe and valve setup below.
The only thing left is to check for leaks which won’t be until spring or if we get to warmer country sooner. I also will be putting a bead of caulk around the base after the toilet has had a chance to compress the gaskets more. I hope you have enjoyed my little adventure. My parts and materials were under $50 for the job and well worth the time and trouble.
I just got this in my Email from Motor Home advise com. It is a good reminder for those of you who are buying used and those of you who have a Extended Warranty on a Coach that is a 2003. Here is what they had to say.
Posted: 05 Oct 2016 10:35 AM PDT
End of Year Updates 2016:
– January 1st, 2017: rates will be going up for all RV’s, as your RV will be considered one model year older. It’s a common misconception that warranties get less expensive as the coach gets older, and this derives mainly from RVers experiencing a dip in their Comprehensive and Collision insurance over time. Unfortunately, this is not the case for extended service contracts, or extended warranties. As the coach gets older, the cost of a policy does go up. Purchasing prior to January 1, 2017 will save you money!
– Vehicles with a model year of 2003 will become ineligible for coverage beginning January 1, 2017. The absolute last chance to secure coverage for a 2003 vehicle will be December 31st, 2016.
– Winterizing? We get it, it’s tough to invest in a policy when you’re not currently using the coach. However, waiting even 6 months can cause a significant increase in the cost of the policy, especially with the end of year rate change. This is even more important for 2003 vehicles, who will not be able to purchase a policy when Spring RVing arrives.
– We understand that the holidays are a very busy time, and it does take approx. 2-3 weeks to get a warranty in place. Choosing to purchase the policy before the crush of the holidays will ensure that you have ample time to complete an inspection and activate coverage with minimal stress.
As promised, here is a Update with a picture of my Arm Rest Console Mod to my Thor Four Winds Hurricane 31D. I added a Log and Map Holder below the arm rest console. Here is A updated picture of the final result. I just have to make a Cream Colored Vinyl Sleeve for the wires and I will be finished with this project.
I have been wanting to solve 3 minor problems in my 2006 Four Winds Hurricane. First was the controls for my Leveling system. The controls were way down on the left drivers side wall just below the dash. Hard to reach and hard to see. The second problem was no drink or coffee cup holder on the drivers side wall. Yes there was a drink and coffee cup holder on the hump, but it was hard to reach and you had to take your eyes off of the road. The next problem was A place to mount my TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) First step was to move the control board up to where it was easier to reach. It was a simple matter to drill out the rivets that held it to the wall and move it into a better position. here is a picture of it after I moved it.
I filled in the holes below where I drilled out the old rivets. Next I needed a place to put my TPMS and other electronics (Cell Phone) and charger. So I started to construct a armrest on the Drivers side wall to hold various Items and my Coffee cup or water bottle while driving. I made my arm rest out of pine and stained it a dark brown, and 3 coats of Clear High Gloss spray paint.
Getting ready to add a piece of lexsan Glass so I will have a smooth surface for any of my various suction cup mounts. It is stained and needs a couple of high gloss clear coats, and some more screws. I used corner brackets to fasten it to the wall using pop rivets and wood screws. I also fashioned a piece to go between the dash and the Leveler control, and affixed a piece of lexsan Glass to the top of it. and used the suction cup stand to install my TPMS.
I ordered a Flush mounted cup holder from a boat company and as soon as it gets here I will drill a hole towards the rear of the arm rest and install it. The wires you see in the picture will be covered with a cream colored vinyl sleeve. Just below the controller I added a 12V receptacle with 2 USB Ports. This way I can plug in my TPMS and plug my Cell Phone in one of the USB Ports. I plan on adding a Log Book and Map Holder below the arm rest console and maybe add a couple of battery condition gauges. will post more pictures when the project is done.
As Promised here is an Update on the Dually Valve stems and the Tire Balancing Beads I had installed on my Motor Home. In my last post I was waiting for the special Dually Valve Stems and the Balancing Beads that I ordered from Camping World and Amazon to get here. They arrived right on time. I took my motor home to a Local OK Tire dealer That was less than a Mile from Home. I lucked out and got a Tire Man that had 14 years experience with various Truck Tire Companies. He was very Knowledgeable. The Directions that came with the Valve stems were not very clear because the picture for the Valve stems that I got did not look the same. We finally got it figured out and the stems installed along with the rubber grommets or boots for the long inner wheel stems. While the tires were being remounted I put a 10 Oz packet of beads in each tire. I also added the filtered valve cores that came with the balancing beads and the red valve caps that denote the tires have beads in them.That was much easier than pouring the beads through the stem. all of the lead wheel weights had to be removed from the wheels. The inside of the tires were wiped out with a clean dry rag, to insure that there was no moisture in the tires before adding the Beads. After the tires and wheels were installed on the motor home along with the wheel covers (Hub Caps), All I can say is WOW and double Wow. What a remarkable improvement. I can now install my TPMS transmitters and can air up the tires with any type of air chuck and I don’t have to remove the wheel covers to do it. See the Picture below after the installation. I don’t know about the balancing beads, as I have not had a chance to run the motor home out on the freeway yet.
I wish that I had done this earlier as it will be a great time saver and I won’t dread checking tire pressure or adding air. I think the reason many skip checking the pressure or adding air is because with many vehicles with dual wheels it is a real pain. It was not cheap the Dually Valve stems on special at Camping World cost me $90 normally they are $120 and the beads were $64 for 6 10 Oz bags. The labor mount and dismount and valve stem install was $20 a tire for a total of $80 The total cost to me was $234 and worth every penny to me. Much better than extensions although more money. BTW Borg Corp the Manufacturer of Dually Valve stem kits Guarantees No leaks and free repair or replacement if you have a leak. So Far I am Happy.
Trying to check or air up the dual tires on my Motor Home, has always been a chore. I have a Thor Four Winds Hurricane 31D with a Ford F-53 Chassis with steel wheels, and wheel covers. I always had to take off the wheel covers to try and check the air pressure. Cut hands trying to get the valve caps off reaching through the wheel hand holes. What a chore it was. The last time when I got new tires I paid $75 to have the rear duals balanced and longer metal valve stems installed so I could at least check the pressure and add air if needed. I still had the problem of trying to get the valve caps off especially trying to reach through the hand holes with the tire covers (Hub Caps) installed. I finally got some long 4 inch metal extensions for the inner wheels and a 1 inch metal extension for the outer wheels. That helped, but was not the ideal solution. It was still hard to get the air chuck (I have one made for dual tires) in the right position to add air to the tires. Because extensions have caused a lot of problems leaking coming loose, and I could not install the transmitters for my TPMS. (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) To be honest the Valve stem extensions scared me and without the TPMS I would not know if one came loose and the tire lost air and I ruined it running under inflated, or worse yet had a blow out doing thousands of dollars in damage or causing injuries. I finally decided to spend the money for a “Borg dually Valve stem Kit DL3FC” made for the Ford F-53 Motor Home chassis and steel wheels. They are not cheap $90 to $120 for the chrome ones depending on where you buy them, and another $20 per wheel to have them installed at a truck tire shop. The Kit comes with rubber boots or grommets, to stabilize the extra long metal stems for the inner wheel.
After I ordered them from Camping World, I found out that after they are installed, you can’t have the tires balanced on a spin balance machine.
So I started looking for alternatives such as a
Mechanical Device (Centramatic Balancers) Expensive,
Centramatic Steer Centramatic Drive
Powder, Liquid, and Beads. After much reading and searching, I decided to get Tire Balancing Beads. Cost being a factor. There are several types and about 4 main distributors of the beads. I finally bought 6 bags of 10 oz Ceramic Beads with Filtered Valve Cores made by Checkered Flag.
Everything should be here in a week or 10 days. I bought the Valve Stem Kit from Camping World, and the Beads from Amazon. after I get everything installed I will post how it turns out. Now maybe I can use my Tire Pressure Monitoring System again.
The New Dynasty RV Mattress that I ordered from Amazon Came today. It was packed really well even though the box was beat up that it came in, the mattress was protected with a very heavy plastic bag, and another layer of plastic under that. I unrolled it on the Bed in the motor home following directions and being careful not to cut into the mattress. Be for warned It will unroll upside down. I had to flip it over. It is heavy and a little bit of a chore for one person, but I managed to man handle it. It looks just like the picture in my previous post. The instructions say that it will take up to 72 hours to completely expand and air out. It started to expand right away and within a few minutes it had expanded to 9 inches of the 10 inch height. It is a little heavy, I did not notice any smell like you do with many Foam Mattress. According to the instructions you do not have to wait for it to expand before sleeping on it. You can sleep on it right away. It really looks nice and feels luxurious. So far I am Happy with it. Will post more when I sleep on it for a few nights and see how well it holds up. I thought that it had a 25 year warranty, but the paper work that came with it says that the warranty is 30 years. I may have to add a couple more struts so that I can raise it up to get under the bed without it falling down on my head. LoL! We store extra blankets and bedding under the bed. See picture below of installed mattress in the motor home.
New 60 X 75 RV Mattress with 2 free pillows to match